Tabytha’s Africa journeys • Tabytha To Part 1 – Cape Town, South Africa Jan. 2020:
- Metaphysical Hub
- Apr 26, 2020
- 13 min read
Hello there! I’m Tabytha, born in Vancouver, Canada. I used to write articles for Hackwriters a long time ago, from a wild teenager’s perspective up until my early twenties. But then I went travelling through Europe and Asia and ended up living in Toronto where I have been residing ever since 2009.
Living in this metropolitan city, and with the job I have, has allowed me over these past eleven years to travel often. I have been to many countries and have had a lot of adventures, mostly solo globe trotting. Indeed I wish there was always more time and finances, but I make do with what little I have to see as much as possible.
I was asked to share with anyone who cares to hear about my latest trip to five countries this year which, with everything horrible happening thus far already, it was not a bad start to 2020. Sadly, with this unpredictable pandemic, who knows when we can travel again? My heart goes out to those who have lost anyone, and I wish you all safety and sanity during this terrible time.
Back in 2003 when I was just a naive little 20 year old, I decided to visit Cape Town, South Africa. My mother had shown me photos growing up of when she had lived there in the 70’s, and having lived in the Canadian suburbs at the time, I was always keen on going there. Vancouver was a fairly multi-cultural city, I couldn’t even imagine how difficult it was for people to live together in peace in South Africa. I did know that the respected, heroic efforts of Nelson Mandela had ended apartheid in 1994 when he became President. So when I landed ten years later in 2003 I thought it would all be done. There was still a lot of separation and it felt like a divided nation. Certainly changed my perspectives on things and opened my eyes wide.
I booked my itinerary through Flight Centre in November, 2019. My work had given me a 10 year $1000 gift card as a thanks for my service. I usually book on my own, but had to use the card. After much research I ended up saving $5000 by booking alternative routes and dates. So, on Jan 10th I had a 26 hour stop-over in sweet Amsterdam, my third time there. The other trips are, of course, another story. Now this particular trip I call The Reunion Tour as I met up with old friends again, some after a very long time. My friend Tijn whom I met the previous year on my travels in Asia, just so happened to live in Amsterdam. Jet lagged, he managed to take me on a bike tour to do a typical locals day of his hometown. We ate stropwaffels in the market, went to a museum, even did a canal tour for the Lights Festival. Being a bartender I tend to know which bars are great in foreign cities, so took us to Rosalie’s Menagerie, which is an adorable date spot with great cocktails. Then after the Red Light district we went to the Flying Dutchman, which is open till 4am. What a wonderful day we had.
Flew out the next morning hungover and still tired, then finally arrived back to my beloved other home, Cape Town, on the 12th. I was last there was for a month in 2012, then I went on Safari to Namibia, Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe for another month and loved the nomadic, camping style of living amongst the wild. I was supposed to go back to Toronto with my then boyfriend, but I couldn’t resist and extended my trip another three weeks and went back to South Africa. I made new friends and just never really wanted to go back home. I already felt like I was home in Cape Town.
They call it Load Shedding, aka rolling black outs, rotational energy saving resources. It’s when they try to save energy and shut down all power in a few districts at a time, randomly, for hours at a time. What the f**k? When the road lights are down, there are new rules to the road. Like in certain neighborhoods you can run a stop sign as it is safer to do so, to ensure not getting hijacked. It was late when I arrived but I was on weird time difference and really wanted to grab a beer and catch up with my friend. There was one bar open left, cash only (smart) and candle lit. It actually made for better ambience, but to the locals, it was an utter nuisance. I understood the next day when Load Shedding happened at 2pm and I was at the Mall, unaware as I did not have the App for the pre-warning, and could not get all the things I wanted to as the centre was shutting down and clearing out all of a sudden. How frustrating! If you don’t have your phone charged, some sort of flash light, your food pulled out of the freezer and pre-cooked, you get screwed, basically. In Johannesburg with a higher population, I guess they figured to at least turn off the power later at nighttime, when people are sleeping…. not during business hours or dinner time, when people cook.
Driving back through Gordon’s Baai with the most amazing mountains and ocean views are something that I feel cannot be beat. Stunning scenery surrounds Cape Town, so much so it doesn’t even seem real. Picturesque-vintage-postcard realism I’d say.
As much as I was blessed with beautiful sunshine each day, there were three days of rain and gusting winds, so much so that my mates braai (bbq pit) nearly flew off his balcony! Those days were movie and eating days with friends inside. Except for the one hike at Sandy Bay (also the only nude beach in town) with Sue and Mikey for a few hours hopping along the slippery rocks and almost stepping on a dead seal carcass – oh the stench, poor thing, but ewwww- and despite the gray, wet walk, I thoroughly enjoyed it. There was a shipwreck and the trails were great.
Other amazing wineries I went to were with Cal and friends to Stellenbosch, Paarl, Franschoek and even Noordhoek has a special one (with a sea view.) We had many tastings, oysters, there were cute animals roaming some of the farms like goats, donkeys and chickens, there were gorgeous gardens full of flowers and succulents, maintained lawns to chill on and soak up the sun drinking the sweet nectar of these new world terroirs; just the most beautiful wine lands you can imagine. I recommend when you visit Cape Town go to Babylonstoren Estates, Fairview Farms, Tokara and Cape Point, but do have a designated driver or take a tour, you’ll want to drink and take a big bag to bring wine home with you.
Long Street can be dangerous at night but still very busy on weekends, yet I still partied there with a few friends and felt suddenly very old!? They were too crammed for me, even on the balconies, they were like swimming pools ’cause we got drenched with sweat, I don’t know how the kids do it. So we went a few blocks up and Bree Street is the best! Funky little pubs and cocktail bars, I would work at any of those if I lived there (I am after all, a seasoned bartender.)
But do go to Stones Billiards it’s essential. I ended up on one of the social party nights at an all night rave party, as you do, barefoot in the club dancing on stage; ah that was perfect, and yet disgusting! I really should keep my shoes on. But it felt so good. It was an epic night for me, as I didn’t go out on the town too much and had a wonderful crew.
This trip I did not get chased by any baboons, and oddly enough the big white shark tourism had ended due to no freaking sharks! Partly due to humans but not as bad as other countries who do the horrific finning, (don’t get me started on those assholes. But this time, maybe because we humans have culled too many species of shark the top predator is getting changed in nature and thus the cycle of life is shifting, for some reason there are Orcas in the Cape who started hunting the sharks. So bizarre. We’ve really screwed the oceans guys. Killer whales are not native to African seas so this behaviour is still unknown, and even stranger, the whales are just taking their livers! Like they were Chinese having a delicacy, leaving the whole body to rot down to the bottom of the ocean floor. Vicious techniques too. Anyway I couldn’t believe there were no sharks around. Astonishing mystery still.
For me, I still have a hard time with my privileged friends (ok white descendants) who are born and raised there and know no other way, TIA as they say ‘This Is Africa’, but watching families have maids and cooks and babysitters often feels like slavery to me. I couldn’t get used to that and it has nothing to do with being poor, I mean I get by well enough, but I just know that these women have their own families they want to spend time with back home. They travel far to keep a wealthier man’s home clean, children fed and entertained, making very little. More than they would in another job I’m sure, but I remember being shocked when I was washing a dish and being nearly scolded for it; and I almost got laughed at when trying to organize plastics and bottles in to recycling piles from the trash. Yeah, another thing that kills me. The Government isn’t the strongest, and with so many people and most in poverty, control over recycling matters simply just don’t matter to some. The population of Cape Town alone is 4.6 million (UN projection 2020), predominantly in townships like Khayelitsha home to hundreds of thousands in shanties mostly..
I can go on about politics and history but I’ll keep it light and let you go for yourself. Yes, things are harsh sometimes, and different, but we have to respect that. First world nations sometimes don’t understand. However, despite all of that, I really do feel at home there. I miss it already. My memorable encounters have been so incredible, and this one seeing kids growing up, people together again, it was so special, to see my family and friends I’ve known for many years and never get to see, my heart is full. I love them all dearly and I gave my word I’d be back for my 40th birthday for two months plus next visit. That is sooner than later and I can’t wait – well the turning 40 part can – to be there with them again.
Kuze kube yileso sikhathi – Zulu for until then. I pray Covid-19 doesn’t get into the townships and hope the Government lockdown there mitigates the spread of the virus. © Tabytha – April 2020 – Here’s my previous visit to Cape Town and Nambia
* Things to know before you go to South Africa. The Rand, their currency, is roughly about 10x the Canadian dollar. For example (ZAR) 100 is about $10 CAD or $7 US. A beer can be typically R50 so nearly $5. It is cheaper, but it all adds up quickly. The weather is hot, and gorgeous, but it gets windy in Cape Town. The rainy season happens around March-May. You do need to pack jackets and loads of sun screen.
*Most speak English, but the Afrikanners have their own language, but it is still regarded as the oppressor’s language. Mostly (in townships) people speak Zulu, Xhosi, Sebedi and Sotho, where people have come from other areas and countries. *Johannesburg is big, traffic is hectic! However it is actually very green, they have the most trees planted for an inner city. I only got to spend one day in the Parkhurst neighborhood, but drove through Joburg a couple times on my way to Hartbeesport and the airport. Perhaps I would have enjoyed it more if I spent more time there, plus Kruger National Park is so close. There is so much to see and do I could write about it forever and I haven’t even done most of South Africa yet. I still want to drive to the Wilderness and then walk along the Drakensburg Mountains, maybe go to Pretoria and Durban one day. In the meantime I’ll tell you about my latest visit for a short, yet ever so sweet three weeks there.
LIVING ON THE RESERVE Tabytha To Part Two – Conservation week with Lions: Somewhere in Africa, 2020
Tabytha’s latest travels continued Prt 3 – Kigali, Rwanda Prague Winter of 2012 Tabytha Towe It was a long and overwhelming day, but I still ended up walking home to the hostel that evening. It really was tough, but for some reason I just had to do it Tales of OZ Tabytha Towe Leaving Thailand nearly a month ago was extremely surreal and rather hard to let go of. I was still stuck in Thai mode for a few days until I realized, abashed and confused, that ‘shit, I’m in Australia!’ Save Your World Tabytha Towe Oh what a day! Hanging out with my girl friends nude on the beach, I can’t think of anything better. More travel
Find Tabytha on her Facebook
Comments